- Captain's Log 6: The Galapagos Islands
March 2008
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March 8 to March 30: The Galapagos Islands:
Our first day in the Galapagos was wonderful and very
surprising. We arrived, anchored easily, our agent took care of
checking in for us and we slept. Later in the day, we caught a
water taxi with our buddies John and Janet from Iris and went
into town looking for Jessie. (Jessie is a wonderful friend and
beautiful and remarkable 80-year-old woman who flew in from
visiting her daughter and son-in-law in Quito to spend a few
days exploring with us.) As we were walking through town, the
skies opened up. We had no idea how hard it could rain! And it
wasn't just a 15-minute shower--it poured buckets for 45
minutes or so, nearly drowning us. We tried to find shelter, but
not much luck. We finally made it to Jessie's hotel looking like
drowned rats.
Once the rain stopped, we ventured out, and stumbled onto a
place where they were cleaning fish. There was the cutest sea
lion there and Jan proceeded to try to pet it. It was
hysterical--Jan and the sea lion doing a dance together, soon
to be joined by a pelican. We had a nice dinner and called it a
day---all of us sailors were pooped.
The next several days, we tried to find out how we could see
the islands. You are not allowed to take a private boat into park
waters (unless you want to pay $200/person/day!), so you must
go guided tour boats, for one or several days. Even though
these restrictions are frustrating, we support why they are doing
it. The islands and wildlife are so fragile, it is important to
control & minimize the impact.
With John, Janet, and Jessie, we took a day trip to the tiny
volcanic island of Bartolome. This is where they filmed Master
and Commander. We hiked to the top of the island---what an
incredible view. Then we went snorkeling. We saw penguins,
actually swam with a sea lion, saw two white tipped sharks, and
tons of tropical fish. The water was so clear. It was the best
snorkeling we've had since the Sea of Cortez.
Our first day in the Galapagos was wonderful and very
surprising. We arrived, anchored easily, our agent took care of
checking in for us and we slept. Later in the day, we caught a
water taxi with our buddies John and Janet from Iris and went
into town looking for Jessie. (Jessie is a wonderful friend and
beautiful and remarkable 80-year-old woman who flew in from
visiting her daughter and son-in-law in Quito to spend a few
days exploring with us.) As we were walking through town, the
skies opened up. We had no idea how hard it could rain! And it
wasn't just a 15-minute shower--it poured buckets for 45
minutes or so, nearly drowning us. We tried to find shelter, but
not much luck. We finally made it to Jessie's hotel looking like
drowned rats.
Once the rain stopped, we ventured out, and stumbled onto a
place where they were cleaning fish. There was the cutest sea
lion there and Jan proceeded to try to pet it. It was
hysterical--Jan and the sea lion doing a dance together, soon
to be joined by a pelican. We had a nice dinner and called it a
day---all of us sailors were pooped.
The next several days, we tried to find out how we could see
the islands. You are not allowed to take a private boat into park
waters (unless you want to pay $200/person/day!), so you must
go guided tour boats, for one or several days. Even though
these restrictions are frustrating, we support why they are doing
it. The islands and wildlife are so fragile, it is important to
control & minimize the impact.
With John, Janet, and Jessie, we took a day trip to the tiny
volcanic island of Bartolome. This is where they filmed Master
and Commander. We hiked to the top of the island---what an
incredible view. Then we went snorkeling. We saw penguins,
actually swam with a sea lion, saw two white tipped sharks, and
tons of tropical fish. The water was so clear. It was the best
snorkeling we've had since the Sea of Cortez.
March 1 - 8, Costa Rica to Galapagos:
Lanquishing in the doldrums and dodging
rain squalls:
We left Golfito under bright blue beautiful skies
on Saturday, March 1 (you never leave on a
Friday). About an hour out, we had lovely winds,
10 to 12 knots on our quarter. What a wonderful
way to start. We had winds for most of the first 24
hour and made over 100 miles--not bad for light
wind sailing and some motoring at very low
RPM's for fuel economy. It is magical when you
get out of the sight of land. The energy is so
pure, just Joan, Casteele, the sea, the wind, sky,
stars, and me. When we sail, the quietness and
beauty is like floating on a cloud.
A few days later we entered what is called the
ITCZ (also known as the doldrums). This is a
zone near the equator that either has no wind, or
squalls with too much wind, plus torrential rain
and lightning flashes to make us jump out of our
skins. It also has incredible clouds that look like
mountains or large soap carvings of magical
creatures. We had it all One minute, no wind, the
ocean glassy as a lake, the next minute a huge
black cloud over head or a huge black mountain
in front of us (or was it Baby Huey?). It was all
very exciting, dodging squalls. I felt like I was in a
kayak going down a nasty river. The nights were
tough because you couldn't see the squalls
except on radar---some were so massive, there
was no way to dodge them. So you just hang
onto your hats and go though them.
Lanquishing in the doldrums and dodging
rain squalls:
We left Golfito under bright blue beautiful skies
on Saturday, March 1 (you never leave on a
Friday). About an hour out, we had lovely winds,
10 to 12 knots on our quarter. What a wonderful
way to start. We had winds for most of the first 24
hour and made over 100 miles--not bad for light
wind sailing and some motoring at very low
RPM's for fuel economy. It is magical when you
get out of the sight of land. The energy is so
pure, just Joan, Casteele, the sea, the wind, sky,
stars, and me. When we sail, the quietness and
beauty is like floating on a cloud.
A few days later we entered what is called the
ITCZ (also known as the doldrums). This is a
zone near the equator that either has no wind, or
squalls with too much wind, plus torrential rain
and lightning flashes to make us jump out of our
skins. It also has incredible clouds that look like
mountains or large soap carvings of magical
creatures. We had it all One minute, no wind, the
ocean glassy as a lake, the next minute a huge
black cloud over head or a huge black mountain
in front of us (or was it Baby Huey?). It was all
very exciting, dodging squalls. I felt like I was in a
kayak going down a nasty river. The nights were
tough because you couldn't see the squalls
except on radar---some were so massive, there
was no way to dodge them. So you just hang
onto your hats and go though them.
On March 7 at about 11am, we crossed the equator. We poured five
glasses of champange---one for Joan,one for myself, and one for
Neptune, as well as one for Casteele. Whoever drank the fastest got the
fifth. We toasted Neptune and asked for safe passage. (Not sure what
this is all about, but it is a sailors ritual, always to be observed.) We
stopped the boat, not hard as there was no wind, and went swimming in
equatorial waters. This was Joan's idea not mine.
We needed to waste some time because we wanted to get to Academy
Bay on Santa Cruz in the Galapagos at 6AM. (You never arrive in the
dark.) So we played at the equator til 2:30 PM and then headed for our
anchorage. Our sailing mentor,, Nancy Erley, told us to never slow down
but I (Jan) concocted this complicated plan which actually worked! ( I
should say, my plans hardly ever work, but I'm getting better.) The last
night was dark and stormy, but we made it.
We arrived at Santa Cruz Island just outside of the anchorage at 5AM. It
was a beautiful sunrise. We took down the sails, put some coffee on and
just floated for an hour, raising our coffee cups high and patting
ourselves on the back. WE ACTUALLY SAILED FROM COSTA RICA TO
THE GALAPAGOS, a seven day passage through the ITCZ and
CROSSING THE EQUATOR. The islands are so magical, it is hard to
believe that we actually sailed here.
glasses of champange---one for Joan,one for myself, and one for
Neptune, as well as one for Casteele. Whoever drank the fastest got the
fifth. We toasted Neptune and asked for safe passage. (Not sure what
this is all about, but it is a sailors ritual, always to be observed.) We
stopped the boat, not hard as there was no wind, and went swimming in
equatorial waters. This was Joan's idea not mine.
We needed to waste some time because we wanted to get to Academy
Bay on Santa Cruz in the Galapagos at 6AM. (You never arrive in the
dark.) So we played at the equator til 2:30 PM and then headed for our
anchorage. Our sailing mentor,, Nancy Erley, told us to never slow down
but I (Jan) concocted this complicated plan which actually worked! ( I
should say, my plans hardly ever work, but I'm getting better.) The last
night was dark and stormy, but we made it.
We arrived at Santa Cruz Island just outside of the anchorage at 5AM. It
was a beautiful sunrise. We took down the sails, put some coffee on and
just floated for an hour, raising our coffee cups high and patting
ourselves on the back. WE ACTUALLY SAILED FROM COSTA RICA TO
THE GALAPAGOS, a seven day passage through the ITCZ and
CROSSING THE EQUATOR. The islands are so magical, it is hard to
believe that we actually sailed here.
One minute, still as a lake. The next minute, wind and
rain and lightning. This is the ITCZ.
rain and lightning. This is the ITCZ.
First glimpse of land in 7 days--the
Galapagos!
Galapagos!
Blue-footed boobie
hitching a ride with us.
hitching a ride with us.
The crew of Iris boarding a water
taxi--not an easy manuever in a rolly
anchorage.
taxi--not an easy manuever in a rolly
anchorage.
Our time has not been without excitement. We were waking the trails in the Charles Darwin
Research Center and were approached by a teenage boy. At first we thought he was
looking for a handout, but then he got right up close to Jan an pulled out a knife, which he
pressed into her stomach. Joan immediately started yelling for help, and the kid ran away
(thank goodness). We reported it to the police. Later that day, Joan saw the kid that held
Jan at knife point. Gentle Joan grabbed him and yelled "policia, policia!" The kid broke away
and ran for it---half the town chased after him and finally he was caught. The kid is now in
jail. Part of our time has been spent filing reports, testifying and trying to find out a way to
help this kid and his family. Hope this is an experience of ONE. (By the way, this is very
unusual for Galapagos to have this type of incident. We know it can happen anywhere.) The
wonderful thing is that we have gotten to know this kid and will continue to be part of his life
in an effort to give him a chance to turn his life around. This experience enabled us to really
connect with this community and most important gave us the opportunity to help a kid that
really needs help. This has truly been a gift to us.
It is now Friday, March 21, and we await the arrival of Ben Haket, who will make the passage
to the Marquessas with us. He is a very gentle soul and a very competent sailor. We are
lucky to have him with us. We leave Santa Cruz on Monday morning to go the the islands of
Floreana and then to Isabela. We are looking forward to seeing more of these enchanted
islands.
We plan to leave for the South Pacific on or before April 1, weather permitting. We are really
looking forward to this crossing. It is over 3000 miles and we will be on the high seas for 20
to 30 days, depending on wind and currents. I know we are doing this, but it is actually really
hard to believe we are doing it--if that makes any sense. Wish us fair winds and following
seas.
The view from atop
Isla Bartolome.
Isla Bartolome.
Joan and the amazing Jessie on Bartolome.
We tried to get this little penguin to swim
with us.
We tried to get this little penguin to swim
with us.
We've done a little kayaking in this bay,
paddling in and out of the rocky,
canyon-like indentations of the shoreline.
Egrets and various types of herons live in
the mangroves, and marine iguanas sun
themselves on the rocks. The iguanas
blend in perfectly with the gray rock--there
are two iguanas in the photo below. See
them?
paddling in and out of the rocky,
canyon-like indentations of the shoreline.
Egrets and various types of herons live in
the mangroves, and marine iguanas sun
themselves on the rocks. The iguanas
blend in perfectly with the gray rock--there
are two iguanas in the photo below. See
them?
Squall ahead!