- Captain's Log 6: The Galapagos Islands
March 2008
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March 8 to March 30: The Galapagos Islands
Once anchored in Academy Bay on the island of Santa Cruz,
we met with our agent, who took care of checking us in while we
hit the sack for some much needed shut eye. Later in the day,
we caught a water taxi with our buddies John and Janet from Iris
and went into town looking for Jessie. (Jessie is a wonderful
friend and beautiful and remarkable 80-year-old woman who
flew in from visiting her daughter and son-in-law in Quito to
spend a few days exploring with us.) As we were walking
through town, the skies opened up. We had no idea how hard it
could rain! And it wasn't just a 15-minute shower--it poured
buckets for 45 minutes or so, nearly drowning us. We tried to
find shelter, but not much luck. We finally made it to Jessie's
hotel looking like drowned rats.
Once the rain stopped, we ventured out, and stumbled onto a
place where they were cleaning fish. There was the cutest sea
lion there and Jan proceeded to try to pet it. It was
hysterical--Jan and the sea lion doing a dance together, soon
to be joined by a pelican. We had a nice dinner and called it a
day---all of us sailors were pooped.
The next several days, we tried to find out how we could see
the Galapagos. You are not allowed to take a private boat into
park waters (unless you want to pay $200/person/day!), so you
must go on guided tour boats, for one or several days. Even
though these restrictions are frustrating, we understand why
they exist. The islands and wildlife are so fragile, it is important
to minimize the impact.
With John, Janet, and Jessie, we took a day trip to the tiny
volcanic island of Bartolome. This is where they filmed Master
and Commander. We hiked to the top of the island---what an
incredible view. Then we went snorkeling. We saw penguins,
actually swam with a sea lion, saw two white tipped sharks, and
tons of tropical fish. The water was so clear. It was the best
snorkeling we've had since the Sea of Cortez.
Once anchored in Academy Bay on the island of Santa Cruz,
we met with our agent, who took care of checking us in while we
hit the sack for some much needed shut eye. Later in the day,
we caught a water taxi with our buddies John and Janet from Iris
and went into town looking for Jessie. (Jessie is a wonderful
friend and beautiful and remarkable 80-year-old woman who
flew in from visiting her daughter and son-in-law in Quito to
spend a few days exploring with us.) As we were walking
through town, the skies opened up. We had no idea how hard it
could rain! And it wasn't just a 15-minute shower--it poured
buckets for 45 minutes or so, nearly drowning us. We tried to
find shelter, but not much luck. We finally made it to Jessie's
hotel looking like drowned rats.
Once the rain stopped, we ventured out, and stumbled onto a
place where they were cleaning fish. There was the cutest sea
lion there and Jan proceeded to try to pet it. It was
hysterical--Jan and the sea lion doing a dance together, soon
to be joined by a pelican. We had a nice dinner and called it a
day---all of us sailors were pooped.
The next several days, we tried to find out how we could see
the Galapagos. You are not allowed to take a private boat into
park waters (unless you want to pay $200/person/day!), so you
must go on guided tour boats, for one or several days. Even
though these restrictions are frustrating, we understand why
they exist. The islands and wildlife are so fragile, it is important
to minimize the impact.
With John, Janet, and Jessie, we took a day trip to the tiny
volcanic island of Bartolome. This is where they filmed Master
and Commander. We hiked to the top of the island---what an
incredible view. Then we went snorkeling. We saw penguins,
actually swam with a sea lion, saw two white tipped sharks, and
tons of tropical fish. The water was so clear. It was the best
snorkeling we've had since the Sea of Cortez.
March 1 - 8, Costa Rica to Galapagos:
Lanquishing in the doldrums and dodging
rain squalls
We left Golfito under bright blue beautiful skies
on Saturday, March 1 (you never leave on a
Friday). About an hour out, we had lovely winds,
10 to 12 knots on our quarter. What a lovely
beginning. We had winds for most of the first 24
hours and made over 100 miles--not bad for light
wind sailing and some motoring at very low
RPM's for fuel economy. It is magical when you
get out of the sight of land. The energy is so
pure, just Joan, Casteele, the sea, the wind, sky,
stars, and me. When we sail, the quietness and
beauty is like floating on a cloud.
A few days later we entered what is called the
ITCZ (also known as the doldrums). This is a
zone near the equator that either has no wind, or
squalls with too much wind, plus torrential rain
and lightning flashes to make us jump out of our
skins. It also has incredible clouds that look like
mountains or large soap carvings of magical
creatures. We had it all One minute, no wind, the
ocean glassy as a lake, the next minute a huge
black cloud overhead or a huge black mountain
in front of us (or was it Baby Huey?). It was all
very exciting, dodging squalls. I felt like I was in a
kayak going down a nasty river. The nights were
tough because you couldn't see the squalls
except on radar---some were so massive, there
was no way to dodge them. So you just hang
onto your hats and go though them.
Lanquishing in the doldrums and dodging
rain squalls
We left Golfito under bright blue beautiful skies
on Saturday, March 1 (you never leave on a
Friday). About an hour out, we had lovely winds,
10 to 12 knots on our quarter. What a lovely
beginning. We had winds for most of the first 24
hours and made over 100 miles--not bad for light
wind sailing and some motoring at very low
RPM's for fuel economy. It is magical when you
get out of the sight of land. The energy is so
pure, just Joan, Casteele, the sea, the wind, sky,
stars, and me. When we sail, the quietness and
beauty is like floating on a cloud.
A few days later we entered what is called the
ITCZ (also known as the doldrums). This is a
zone near the equator that either has no wind, or
squalls with too much wind, plus torrential rain
and lightning flashes to make us jump out of our
skins. It also has incredible clouds that look like
mountains or large soap carvings of magical
creatures. We had it all One minute, no wind, the
ocean glassy as a lake, the next minute a huge
black cloud overhead or a huge black mountain
in front of us (or was it Baby Huey?). It was all
very exciting, dodging squalls. I felt like I was in a
kayak going down a nasty river. The nights were
tough because you couldn't see the squalls
except on radar---some were so massive, there
was no way to dodge them. So you just hang
onto your hats and go though them.
On March 7 at about 11am, we crossed the equator. We poured five
glasses of champange---one for Joan,one for myself, and one for
Neptune, as well as one for Casteele. Whoever drank the fastest got the
fifth. We toasted Neptune and asked for safe passage. (Not sure what
this is all about, but it is a sailor's ritual, always to be observed.) We
stopped the boat, not hard as there was no wind, and went swimming in
equatorial waters. This was Joan's idea not mine.
We needed to waste some time because we wanted to get to Academy
Bay on Santa Cruz in the Galapagos at 6AM. (You never arrive in the
dark.) So we played at the equator til 2:30 PM and then headed for our
anchorage. Our sailing mentor, Nancy Erley, told us to never slow down
but I (Jan) concocted this complicated plan that actually worked! ( I
should say, my plans hardly ever work, but I'm getting better.) The last
night was dark and stormy, but we made it.
We arrived at Santa Cruz Island just outside of the anchorage at 5AM. It
was a beautiful sunrise. We took down the sails, put some coffee on and
just floated for an hour, raising our coffee cups high and patting
ourselves on the back. It was hard to believe that we had actually sailed
to the Galapagos, a seven day passage through the ITCZ and across the
equator. We were right pleased with ourselves!
glasses of champange---one for Joan,one for myself, and one for
Neptune, as well as one for Casteele. Whoever drank the fastest got the
fifth. We toasted Neptune and asked for safe passage. (Not sure what
this is all about, but it is a sailor's ritual, always to be observed.) We
stopped the boat, not hard as there was no wind, and went swimming in
equatorial waters. This was Joan's idea not mine.
We needed to waste some time because we wanted to get to Academy
Bay on Santa Cruz in the Galapagos at 6AM. (You never arrive in the
dark.) So we played at the equator til 2:30 PM and then headed for our
anchorage. Our sailing mentor, Nancy Erley, told us to never slow down
but I (Jan) concocted this complicated plan that actually worked! ( I
should say, my plans hardly ever work, but I'm getting better.) The last
night was dark and stormy, but we made it.
We arrived at Santa Cruz Island just outside of the anchorage at 5AM. It
was a beautiful sunrise. We took down the sails, put some coffee on and
just floated for an hour, raising our coffee cups high and patting
ourselves on the back. It was hard to believe that we had actually sailed
to the Galapagos, a seven day passage through the ITCZ and across the
equator. We were right pleased with ourselves!
One minute, still as a lake. The next minute, wind,
rain, and lightning. This is the ITCZ.
rain, and lightning. This is the ITCZ.
First glimpse of land in 7 days--the
Galapagos!
Galapagos!
Blue-footed boobie
hitching a ride with us.
hitching a ride with us.
The crew of Iris boarding a water
taxi--not an easy manuever in a
rolly anchorage.
taxi--not an easy manuever in a
rolly anchorage.
Our time on Santa Cruz has not been without excitement. We were waking the trails in the
Charles Darwin Research Center and were approached by a teenage boy. At first we
thought he was looking for a handout, but then he got right up close to Jan an pulled out a
knife, which he pressed into her stomach. Joan immediately started yelling for help, and the
kid ran away (thank goodness). We reported it to the police. Later that day, Joan saw the kid
that held Jan at knife point. Gentle Joan grabbed him and yelled "policia, policia!" The kid
broke away and ran for it---half the town chased after him and finally the police caught and
arrested him.
We spent a lot of time filing reports, testifying, and trying to find a way to help this
16-year-old boy (Jerson). (By the way, this type of incident is very unusual for the
Galapagos. We know it could happen anywhere.) We learned through a social service
agency that he is a school dropout and homeless (kicked out by his family). Surprise,
surprise. We've made arrangements to help out with a foster family and with his education.
The wonderful thing is that we have gotten to know Jerson and will continue to be part of his
life. This experience enabled us to connect with the community and most important, gave us
the opportunity to help a kid who really needs it.
The view from atop
Isla Bartolome.
Isla Bartolome.
Joan and the amazing Jessie on
Bartolome. We tried to get this little
penguin to swim with us.
Bartolome. We tried to get this little
penguin to swim with us.
We've done a little kayaking in this bay,
paddling in and out of the rocky,
canyon-like indentations of the shoreline.
Egrets and various types of herons live in
the mangroves, and marine iguanas sun
themselves on the rocks. The iguanas
blend in perfectly with the gray rock--there
are two iguanas in the photo below. See
them?
paddling in and out of the rocky,
canyon-like indentations of the shoreline.
Egrets and various types of herons live in
the mangroves, and marine iguanas sun
themselves on the rocks. The iguanas
blend in perfectly with the gray rock--there
are two iguanas in the photo below. See
them?
Squall ahead!
Our crew member, Ben Haket, joined us in
Academy Bay. We had decided that having a
third person on board might be a good idea for
our 3,000-mile crossing to the Marquesas, and
Ben was an ideal choice. A friend of our San
Fran pals Chuck and Barb, Ben is a delivery
captain and ocean racer with miles and miles of
sailing experience under his PFD. As he hauled
in lines, scampered around the rolling decks, and
climbed the mast like a little monkey, Ben looked
more like a lad of 16 than 69. Plus, he's the
sweetest and most patient guy you could hope to
meet--important attributes if you find yourself
trapped on a boat in the middle of the ocean with
the likes of us!
With Ben we traveled to two other islands:
Floreana and Isabella. The raw, volcanic
landscapes of the Galapagos is riveting, and the
wildlife not only abundant but fearless around
humans. Penguins swam around our boat and
sea lions threatened to climb aboard. (We heard
of sea lions climbing into the cockpits of other
boats, stretching out on the cushions for a
midday nap.) We saw giant land tortoises both in
the wild and on the turtle farms where they are
raised before release. And we saw more marine
iquanas than you could shake a stick at.
Academy Bay. We had decided that having a
third person on board might be a good idea for
our 3,000-mile crossing to the Marquesas, and
Ben was an ideal choice. A friend of our San
Fran pals Chuck and Barb, Ben is a delivery
captain and ocean racer with miles and miles of
sailing experience under his PFD. As he hauled
in lines, scampered around the rolling decks, and
climbed the mast like a little monkey, Ben looked
more like a lad of 16 than 69. Plus, he's the
sweetest and most patient guy you could hope to
meet--important attributes if you find yourself
trapped on a boat in the middle of the ocean with
the likes of us!
With Ben we traveled to two other islands:
Floreana and Isabella. The raw, volcanic
landscapes of the Galapagos is riveting, and the
wildlife not only abundant but fearless around
humans. Penguins swam around our boat and
sea lions threatened to climb aboard. (We heard
of sea lions climbing into the cockpits of other
boats, stretching out on the cushions for a
midday nap.) We saw giant land tortoises both in
the wild and on the turtle farms where they are
raised before release. And we saw more marine
iquanas than you could shake a stick at.
Isabella was our favoritie island. We rode dirt roads into
the hills on rented bikes and watched the sea lions and
penguins swimming around our boat. The highlight was
a trip to a truly remarkable place called "Les Tuneles"
(The Tunnels"), an area of collapsed lava tubes that
have created an intricate maze of narrow waterways. We
went in an open boat with two powerful outboard
engines and a guide reputed to know what he was
doing. Thank goodness for all three. To get to the
Tunnels, one must find a break in the roiling surf line,
then time it exactly right to blast through before the
opening closes. It was an adrenaline-pumping moment
when our guide spotted the hole and gunned his
engines, slamming us through a narrow area
surrounded by 8-10 foot breakers.
The Tunnels is an otherworldly place, with countless
narrow waterways twisting through tiny islets and arches
of black lava. Tropical birds, fish, penguins, sea lions,
marine iguanas, and giant sea turtles inhabit the area.
We donned our snorkeling gear to weave through the
lava tubes ourselves, and ended up mask to snout with
penguins and sea lions.
Our biggest thrill was actually playing with a sea lion. He
(she?) was like a big rambunctious golden retriever, all
fun and exuberant energy. He would dive right at us,
cutting away at the last second, and then pop his head
out to see what effect he'd had. He took turns with us
initiating and imitating actions--if we dove, he dove; if we
twisted and rolled, he'd do the same; if we surfaced, so
would he. We'd swim underwater straight at each other,
swerving just in time to brush by each other, and I swear
I saw him grinning and could almost hear him chortling.
He was our sea pup, and I think he would have played
with us forever, but after half an hour, we humans were
wiped.
On March 31, we hoisted up our anchor and said
goodbye to the Galapagos. We pointed Casteele's bow
toward the setting sun and with our hearts in our throats,
began the longest passage of our trip--the 3,000-mile
ocean crossing to French Polynesia.
the hills on rented bikes and watched the sea lions and
penguins swimming around our boat. The highlight was
a trip to a truly remarkable place called "Les Tuneles"
(The Tunnels"), an area of collapsed lava tubes that
have created an intricate maze of narrow waterways. We
went in an open boat with two powerful outboard
engines and a guide reputed to know what he was
doing. Thank goodness for all three. To get to the
Tunnels, one must find a break in the roiling surf line,
then time it exactly right to blast through before the
opening closes. It was an adrenaline-pumping moment
when our guide spotted the hole and gunned his
engines, slamming us through a narrow area
surrounded by 8-10 foot breakers.
The Tunnels is an otherworldly place, with countless
narrow waterways twisting through tiny islets and arches
of black lava. Tropical birds, fish, penguins, sea lions,
marine iguanas, and giant sea turtles inhabit the area.
We donned our snorkeling gear to weave through the
lava tubes ourselves, and ended up mask to snout with
penguins and sea lions.
Our biggest thrill was actually playing with a sea lion. He
(she?) was like a big rambunctious golden retriever, all
fun and exuberant energy. He would dive right at us,
cutting away at the last second, and then pop his head
out to see what effect he'd had. He took turns with us
initiating and imitating actions--if we dove, he dove; if we
twisted and rolled, he'd do the same; if we surfaced, so
would he. We'd swim underwater straight at each other,
swerving just in time to brush by each other, and I swear
I saw him grinning and could almost hear him chortling.
He was our sea pup, and I think he would have played
with us forever, but after half an hour, we humans were
wiped.
On March 31, we hoisted up our anchor and said
goodbye to the Galapagos. We pointed Casteele's bow
toward the setting sun and with our hearts in our throats,
began the longest passage of our trip--the 3,000-mile
ocean crossing to French Polynesia.
Casteele anchored off
beautiful Isla Floreana.
beautiful Isla Floreana.
Hard to believe these little guys will
grow to the size of the giant below.
grow to the size of the giant below.