- Captain's Log 6: Central America
- January - February 2008
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farewell and headed south toward Central America. We left Huatulco, Mexico, just before sunset to cross
the "Terrible Tehuantepec," where winds funneling across the low isthmus from the Gulf of Mexico can kick
up to 60 knots, whipping up waves of 20 feet or more. We had waited for a "weather window" of calm, and
boy, did we get one. We motored straight across T-Pec over nearly glassy seas, breaking the cardinal rule
for crossing the Tehuantepec, which is to hug the shore, to avoid getting caught in huge seas should the
winds start blowing. In the continued calm, we motored down the coasts of Guatamala and El Salvador. In
that area, gale-force winds called "Papagayos" can blow, but we saw nary a puff.
What we did see, 50 miles off the coast of Guatamala, were several high-speed pangas (local fishing
boats, but with two big outboards), which kept zooming past Casteele. What, we wondered, were pangas
doing so far offshore and running in such erratic patterns at such high speeds? At one point, a panga
came right up to our stern. Joan was below, but what Jan saw was frightening--a couple men, one covered
in long sleeves and pants and wearing a ski mask (in 80-plus degree temperatures), all gesturing at her
and yelling something in Spanish she couldn't understand. Jan yelled "No entiendo!" and increased our
speed (which in a sailboat means going from 6 knots to 7), and the panga sped away. Later, two other
pangas passed close by while Joan was outside. What she saw were boats and men that definitely looked
like they were equipped for fishing--but the distance from shore and high speeds make this a mystery we
still haven't solved.
IMPRESSIONS
JAN: Leaving Mexico for me was a big leap---I was happy to leave, ready to get on with the
adventure, but also a bit reluctant and a little scared. Thinking about Tuanapec and the long, dark
passages seemed both exciting and potentially very dangerous. Also---no more cell
phone!!!!Yikes!!!! Questions loomed---Would we be safe? Are we ready? Is the boat ready? Do we
know enough? Why am I doing this? Where did all our cruising buddies go? As we all know, the
answers come as we walk through our future.
The actual crossing of the Tuanapec was a giagantic relief---we had the perfect weather window.
We left with another boat, Solstice, and felt safer having another boat not far behind us. Then came
the scary incident of several pangas motoring around us, 50 miles offshore. We couldn't figure out
what they were doing out there and also why they kept criss crossing in front and behind us. Then
one came to the stern of our boat, one man totally covered with knit clothes and a knit mask. (it was
90 degrees) It scared the pi geess out of us. One of the men in the panga said something I did not
understand, then waved his arms and drove off. We never did understand what this was all about,
but it did get Joan and I thinking about how we would respond to a bad situation. We have two water
pistols as weapons.....It was a good experience in that we did develop a plan of various things we
might do, like maybe put water in our water pistols..We also have a cheat sheet of spanish phrases
or "get out here", "go away".
Then to top it off, that night----no wind, so we continued to motor---we developed an electrical
problem. The engine was dead with no starting in sight.I totally forgot about the mysterious pangas.
I am not sure how Joan kept the boat sailing with no wind--but she did. (Maybe she just blew on the
sails!!) Also, she kept us away from cargo ships as we were floating at a fast speed of 1 knot.
While Joan was doing her magic, I was tracing wires and reading manuals, trying to fix the electrical
glitch. Finally, the next morning I was able to reach Irvin at Gallery Marine and he was able to help
me solve the problem. (Thank God, for satellite phones.) The engine was running again, in perfect
form, by 11am. Whew!!!!!
During the night, we contacted our buddies, Soltice, only to find out that their transmission went out
and they were also without an engine. A fine pair we made!!!!! So much for safety in numbers. Ha
Ha
Only two days away from Mexico, and we had experienced some of my greatest fears---no moon
during my watch at night, engine failure, no wind, possible pirates at sea, no one around to help.
The wonderful thing is that we had all this happen and we are still laughing and writing about it.....I
guess we will be okay.
I loved Puestro Del Sol in Nicaragua. It felt so good to get to a Marina where the setting was perfect,
food was great, wonderful pool, could actually get fuel easily, power, shower, & laundry. These are
the simple things we take for granite in the States---but not so simple to obtain in the crusing life.
We left and high tailed it to Costa Rica. We experienced our first scall---very exciting, especially the
way it shows up on the radar. Saw lots of dolphins, whales and jumping mantas.
The best part for me was watching the sunrise. I was able to do my mediation to the Moola Mantra,
surrounded by dolphins, no land in sight. To experience and discover this absolute sense of peace
and senrenty is why I am on this adventure.
I really missed my family at Christmas.I have only been away for Christmas two times in 61 years. As
such,it was very important to me to connect with my sister, Carol and her husband, Larry in Costa
Rica, and we did. We had a great time, even though it was too short.
Now we are traveling south again. "On the Road Again!!!!" Really love connecing with the locals
and especially the kids. We found this anchorage in the Gulf of Nicaoya behind a island called
Cedros. Homesick, homesick , homesick!!!! It is a quiet, calm anchorage surrounded by islands and
a ferry to boot. It is so so similar to the San Juans and Gulf Islands---except of coures, the palm
trees, Howler monkeys (and they really do howler), and parakets.We have stayed here for four
days and can't seem to leave. Have met some wonderful people.
Our next stops were heavenly, especially Manual Antonio. It is definately, my all time favorite
achorage. Pictures do not do it justice. We then went to Drake Bay and hiked thru the jungle. What
a trip---we swam in this jungle stream, under a waterfall and only afterwards--our guide let us know
about the crocadiles....Yikes!!!
Now we are about to head for Galapagos. Wish us good luck.
JAN: Leaving Mexico for me was a big leap---I was happy to leave, ready to get on with the
adventure, but also a bit reluctant and a little scared. Thinking about Tuanapec and the long, dark
passages seemed both exciting and potentially very dangerous. Also---no more cell
phone!!!!Yikes!!!! Questions loomed---Would we be safe? Are we ready? Is the boat ready? Do we
know enough? Why am I doing this? Where did all our cruising buddies go? As we all know, the
answers come as we walk through our future.
The actual crossing of the Tuanapec was a giagantic relief---we had the perfect weather window.
We left with another boat, Solstice, and felt safer having another boat not far behind us. Then came
the scary incident of several pangas motoring around us, 50 miles offshore. We couldn't figure out
what they were doing out there and also why they kept criss crossing in front and behind us. Then
one came to the stern of our boat, one man totally covered with knit clothes and a knit mask. (it was
90 degrees) It scared the pi geess out of us. One of the men in the panga said something I did not
understand, then waved his arms and drove off. We never did understand what this was all about,
but it did get Joan and I thinking about how we would respond to a bad situation. We have two water
pistols as weapons.....It was a good experience in that we did develop a plan of various things we
might do, like maybe put water in our water pistols..We also have a cheat sheet of spanish phrases
or "get out here", "go away".
Then to top it off, that night----no wind, so we continued to motor---we developed an electrical
problem. The engine was dead with no starting in sight.I totally forgot about the mysterious pangas.
I am not sure how Joan kept the boat sailing with no wind--but she did. (Maybe she just blew on the
sails!!) Also, she kept us away from cargo ships as we were floating at a fast speed of 1 knot.
While Joan was doing her magic, I was tracing wires and reading manuals, trying to fix the electrical
glitch. Finally, the next morning I was able to reach Irvin at Gallery Marine and he was able to help
me solve the problem. (Thank God, for satellite phones.) The engine was running again, in perfect
form, by 11am. Whew!!!!!
During the night, we contacted our buddies, Soltice, only to find out that their transmission went out
and they were also without an engine. A fine pair we made!!!!! So much for safety in numbers. Ha
Ha
Only two days away from Mexico, and we had experienced some of my greatest fears---no moon
during my watch at night, engine failure, no wind, possible pirates at sea, no one around to help.
The wonderful thing is that we had all this happen and we are still laughing and writing about it.....I
guess we will be okay.
I loved Puestro Del Sol in Nicaragua. It felt so good to get to a Marina where the setting was perfect,
food was great, wonderful pool, could actually get fuel easily, power, shower, & laundry. These are
the simple things we take for granite in the States---but not so simple to obtain in the crusing life.
We left and high tailed it to Costa Rica. We experienced our first scall---very exciting, especially the
way it shows up on the radar. Saw lots of dolphins, whales and jumping mantas.
The best part for me was watching the sunrise. I was able to do my mediation to the Moola Mantra,
surrounded by dolphins, no land in sight. To experience and discover this absolute sense of peace
and senrenty is why I am on this adventure.
I really missed my family at Christmas.I have only been away for Christmas two times in 61 years. As
such,it was very important to me to connect with my sister, Carol and her husband, Larry in Costa
Rica, and we did. We had a great time, even though it was too short.
Now we are traveling south again. "On the Road Again!!!!" Really love connecing with the locals
and especially the kids. We found this anchorage in the Gulf of Nicaoya behind a island called
Cedros. Homesick, homesick , homesick!!!! It is a quiet, calm anchorage surrounded by islands and
a ferry to boot. It is so so similar to the San Juans and Gulf Islands---except of coures, the palm
trees, Howler monkeys (and they really do howler), and parakets.We have stayed here for four
days and can't seem to leave. Have met some wonderful people.
Our next stops were heavenly, especially Manual Antonio. It is definately, my all time favorite
achorage. Pictures do not do it justice. We then went to Drake Bay and hiked thru the jungle. What
a trip---we swam in this jungle stream, under a waterfall and only afterwards--our guide let us know
about the crocadiles....Yikes!!!
Now we are about to head for Galapagos. Wish us good luck.
January 29 - February 6, Isla de Cedros in Golfo de
Nicoya--are we in the Northwest? After a year and a half
of rolly and/or windy anchorages off broad beaches offering
little protection, we found an intimate, totally protected spot
surrounded by wooded hillsides and tiny islands, in the
center of a huge gulf called Nicoya. If it weren't for the
occasional cluster of palm trees, the warm temperatures, and
the hooting of howler monkeys, we'd swear we were in British
Columbia. There is even a little ferry across the way. The
water is flat and calm (so calm, Jan could climb the mast), the
scenery serene, and the opportunities to explore with our
kayaks endless.
The only negative aspect was that Golfo de Nicoya is the
unhappy recipient of all the trash tossed into the river that
feeds into it. Floating in the water and cluttering the beaches
is enough plastic garbage to make you swear off plastic
forever--plastic bottles, plastic bags, plastic everything. It's a
sad sight in this otherwise beautiful gulf. We were told that
most of it comes from the inland capital city of San Jose.
We did our usual grocery-shopping ritual, which is a far cry
from jumping in the car and zipping over to the store for that
forgotten quart of milk. When we need to provision--which is
often, since refrigerator space is limited--we paddle our
kayaks to shore, walk or take a bus or cab to the nearest
town, wander through the various tiny markets and produce
stands, filling our bags and backpacks. Then it's back to the
beach to load up the kayaks and push off into the water,
praying that an errant wave won't topple you and your
groceries into the surf. (Believe us--it's happened more times
than we care to tell.) A blessing at Cedros was the flat calm
waters--no breaking surf. So we trekked into the nearby "tico"
town (local as opposed to tourist) and stocked up.
While in town, we stopped for a cold drink at a bar/restaurant
run by a short, spry woman whose granddaughter proudly
showed us her certificate of graduation from secondary
school. She then chattered excitedly about the technical
school she hoped to attend. The hand-written signs on the
wall describing what dishes were served included "huevos de
tortugas"--turtle eggs. This surprised us since eating turtle
eggs is illegal in Mexico.
Just as in Barkley Sound, B.C., we spent entire days in our
kayaks, paddling the coastline looking for birds and
monkeys, circumnavigating small islands that are nature
preserves, and poking our noses into tiny coves where the
local fishermen and their families live. We met one fisherman
who lived in Florida for ten years and then returned to the
simple beachside house his family has owned for seventy
years. As we sat and talked, he methodically straightened
and organized the multitude of hooks on his long line.
We have met expats here too--Costa Rica has become a
favored destination for Europeans, Canadians, and
Americans wanting a new or second home in another,
less-expensive country. One charming young couple from
Norway, Thomas Jones & Vigdis Vatshaug, have purchased
a little bit of paradise and started a kayak camp. They have
two small cabins and main house perched on a green,
shaded hill, with privacy, views, and easy kayaking access to
all the nature preserves and snorkeling spots in the area..
Anyone looking for a wonderful kayaking vacation in Costa
Rica should contact them; see their website at
www.bahiarica.com. We also met a couple from Michigan who
have built a house on Cedros Island. They took us in their
panga to the nearby town of Puntarenas, where they guided
us to the outdoor internet cafe,and pointed out the best
markets and produce stands. They then gave us a tour of
the northern islands, topping it off with a wonderful dinner at
their place. Thanks, John and Sue!
We reluctantly left our sweet little anchorage and visited a
couple other spots in the Gulf of Nicoya. Joined our good
friends Stan and Lynn, aboard Homers' Odyssey, in the
large, open Bahia de Ballena. We anchored off a tiny, rustic
fishing community where hundreds of pelicans filled the air
around the pier, diving for the fish parts tossed into the water
by the men cleaning the day's catch. On the fishing pier was
a simple, open-air restaurant where we and several other
cruisers had a terrific dinner of fresh-caught mahi mahi. At
one table an elderly Costa Rican man started playing his
guitar and singing mournful, Latin American love songs (I can
only assume), in an intense, deep, resonating voice, his eyes
half closed, his dark leathery face full of emotion. His two
friends joined in, trading off solo parts. We've seen similar
scenes in Italy and Mexico. Those latino men do love to sing.
January 15-23, joining Jan's family in Costa Rica: We
went around the corner from Santa Elena to Playa de Coco,
in Bahia de Culebra, a large bay protected from the
Papagayo winds. Our first impressions of Costa Rica weren't
the greatest. We made rough and tumble kayak landings
through surf onto beaches covered in black volcanic
silt--which soon covered us, our clothes, our boat, our sheets
. . . Costa Rican sugar cane farmers were burning their
fields, so every morning we awoke to decks covered not only
with black silt but also with black ashes. The place where we
had to check into the country (Playa de Coco) was a rough
and tumble outpost with one partially paved dusty street
bordered by ticky-tacky tourist places and jammed with
4-wheel drive vehicles and trucks==like a tropical version of a
wild West town.
However, it was at Playa de Coco that we hooked up with
Jan's sister, Carol, brother-in-law, Larry, and their friends,
who were staying in a nearby resort. Had a terrific time with
them, sailing on the bay (where Carol bared all for a photo),
and taking a river trip where we saw crocodiles, giant
iguanas, weird little bats, and versions of herons we didn't
know had been invented.
We moved our boat to another beach anchorage in Culebra
where we could go ashore without somersaulting through
black silt. On the shore was a popular park and on Sundays
it was thronged with Costa Rican families, the kids playing in
the surf and burying one another in the sand just like kids
everywhere. In Costa Rica, as in Mexico, all beaches are
public, even those in front of resort hotels or private
residences. Which is as it should be.
went around the corner from Santa Elena to Playa de Coco,
in Bahia de Culebra, a large bay protected from the
Papagayo winds. Our first impressions of Costa Rica weren't
the greatest. We made rough and tumble kayak landings
through surf onto beaches covered in black volcanic
silt--which soon covered us, our clothes, our boat, our sheets
. . . Costa Rican sugar cane farmers were burning their
fields, so every morning we awoke to decks covered not only
with black silt but also with black ashes. The place where we
had to check into the country (Playa de Coco) was a rough
and tumble outpost with one partially paved dusty street
bordered by ticky-tacky tourist places and jammed with
4-wheel drive vehicles and trucks==like a tropical version of a
wild West town.
However, it was at Playa de Coco that we hooked up with
Jan's sister, Carol, brother-in-law, Larry, and their friends,
who were staying in a nearby resort. Had a terrific time with
them, sailing on the bay (where Carol bared all for a photo),
and taking a river trip where we saw crocodiles, giant
iguanas, weird little bats, and versions of herons we didn't
know had been invented.
We moved our boat to another beach anchorage in Culebra
where we could go ashore without somersaulting through
black silt. On the shore was a popular park and on Sundays
it was thronged with Costa Rican families, the kids playing in
the surf and burying one another in the sand just like kids
everywhere. In Costa Rica, as in Mexico, all beaches are
public, even those in front of resort hotels or private
residences. Which is as it should be.
January 24--27: Bahia de Guacamaya, Costa Rica: Just 10
miles south of Playa de Coco is a small, pristine, undeveloped
(but not for long) bay we fondly called Bahia de Guacamole,
with beautiful white sand beaches backed by palm trees. We
enjoyed several lovely days kayaking, snorkeling, and exploring
this lovely bay. A Costa Rican family was camped on the beach,
and the kids had a ball playing with our kayaks. At the opening
to the bay, small manta rays leaped over and over into the air,
straight up and in unison no less, sometimes ten at once. Jan
thought they looked like Mexican jumping beans.
Sadly, like so many other places in Costa Rica, Guacamaya is
slated for development. American money is behind the planned
construction of a high-end resort, complete with golf course and
nearby marina. One woman commented to us that "Costa Rica
is the next Hawaii." Good news for many folks, we are sure, but
not for people like us who prefer natural settings to golf courses
and beaches populated by locals to ones covered with beach
umbrellas and jet skis.
miles south of Playa de Coco is a small, pristine, undeveloped
(but not for long) bay we fondly called Bahia de Guacamole,
with beautiful white sand beaches backed by palm trees. We
enjoyed several lovely days kayaking, snorkeling, and exploring
this lovely bay. A Costa Rican family was camped on the beach,
and the kids had a ball playing with our kayaks. At the opening
to the bay, small manta rays leaped over and over into the air,
straight up and in unison no less, sometimes ten at once. Jan
thought they looked like Mexican jumping beans.
Sadly, like so many other places in Costa Rica, Guacamaya is
slated for development. American money is behind the planned
construction of a high-end resort, complete with golf course and
nearby marina. One woman commented to us that "Costa Rica
is the next Hawaii." Good news for many folks, we are sure, but
not for people like us who prefer natural settings to golf courses
and beaches populated by locals to ones covered with beach
umbrellas and jet skis.
February 7 - 10: Birds, monkeys, and sloths in beautiful
Manuel Antonio National Park: Thus far, the coastline of
Costa Rica has been surprisingly dry. It is dry season, yes,
but the brown hillsides of scrub brush, yellow grasses,
small-leafed trees, and cactus look more like Arizona than
the jungles we expected. This changed when we tucked into
the anchorage off Costa Rica's smallest national park,
Manuel Antonio.
We are sure we have not seen a more beautiful spot--lush,
lush, jungly forest in all shades and textures of green spilling
down the hillsides to fringe the tropical white sand beach and
steep rocky cliffs.
Rising at dawn, we went ashore with our friends John and
Janet, aboard Iris, to hike the trails, looking for birds,
monkeys, sloths, and other such critters. The vegetation is
so dense and entangled, it's impossible to separate one
plant from another. An intricate webbing of branches, leaves,
and vines form a dense canopy that blocks the heat and
filters the intense sunlight. Giant palms and ferns climb
skyward alongside huge, multi-branched, large-leafed trees.
We heard plenty of bird song, but spotting anything through
the tangle of green was challenging. Some white-throated
monkeys peered down at us from above and along the trail
we saw the weirdest version of an iguana ever--a tiny thing a
couple inches across, eating a leaf. We also spotted some
two-toed sloths--at least, that's what people told us they
were. Looked like nothing more than a headless, legless
bundle of fur curled up in the branches.
We took the bus into a nearby town for some provisioning.
The road is lined with outdoor bar/restaurants advertising, in
Spanish, English, and German, live music and "backpacker"
cabins renting for $7-13 U.S. a night. No wonder Costa Rica
attracts young people from all over the world (including my
nephew Kyle), with its surfing beaches, sunshine, cheap
accommodations, food, and transportation, and plenty of
like-minded individuals to hang with.
Manuel Antonio National Park: Thus far, the coastline of
Costa Rica has been surprisingly dry. It is dry season, yes,
but the brown hillsides of scrub brush, yellow grasses,
small-leafed trees, and cactus look more like Arizona than
the jungles we expected. This changed when we tucked into
the anchorage off Costa Rica's smallest national park,
Manuel Antonio.
We are sure we have not seen a more beautiful spot--lush,
lush, jungly forest in all shades and textures of green spilling
down the hillsides to fringe the tropical white sand beach and
steep rocky cliffs.
Rising at dawn, we went ashore with our friends John and
Janet, aboard Iris, to hike the trails, looking for birds,
monkeys, sloths, and other such critters. The vegetation is
so dense and entangled, it's impossible to separate one
plant from another. An intricate webbing of branches, leaves,
and vines form a dense canopy that blocks the heat and
filters the intense sunlight. Giant palms and ferns climb
skyward alongside huge, multi-branched, large-leafed trees.
We heard plenty of bird song, but spotting anything through
the tangle of green was challenging. Some white-throated
monkeys peered down at us from above and along the trail
we saw the weirdest version of an iguana ever--a tiny thing a
couple inches across, eating a leaf. We also spotted some
two-toed sloths--at least, that's what people told us they
were. Looked like nothing more than a headless, legless
bundle of fur curled up in the branches.
We took the bus into a nearby town for some provisioning.
The road is lined with outdoor bar/restaurants advertising, in
Spanish, English, and German, live music and "backpacker"
cabins renting for $7-13 U.S. a night. No wonder Costa Rica
attracts young people from all over the world (including my
nephew Kyle), with its surfing beaches, sunshine, cheap
accommodations, food, and transportation, and plenty of
like-minded individuals to hang with.
February 11- 13: Toucans, scarlet macaws, howler
monkeys, and more in the tropical rain forest of the
Osa Peninsula: Joan's nephew Kyle recommended that we
visit the Osa Peninsula, and what a smart suggestion that
was. Thanks, Kyle. National Geographic described the Osa
Peninsula as "one of the most biologically intense places on
earth." Most of it is protected under the Corcovado National
Park. There are 350 bird species indigenous to the area, as
well as all four Costa Rican monkey species and even jaguar
and puma. We took a guided hike with a naturalist who had
an uncanny ability to find birds and animals. Caught glimpses
of brilliantly colored scarlet macaws and toucans, saw puma
tracks in the sand, watched howler monkeys hooting away in
the trees, and swam in a deep river pool (afterward learning
that baby crocs are sometimes spotted there!) This was the
Costa Rica Joan has dreamed about seeing for years.
monkeys, and more in the tropical rain forest of the
Osa Peninsula: Joan's nephew Kyle recommended that we
visit the Osa Peninsula, and what a smart suggestion that
was. Thanks, Kyle. National Geographic described the Osa
Peninsula as "one of the most biologically intense places on
earth." Most of it is protected under the Corcovado National
Park. There are 350 bird species indigenous to the area, as
well as all four Costa Rican monkey species and even jaguar
and puma. We took a guided hike with a naturalist who had
an uncanny ability to find birds and animals. Caught glimpses
of brilliantly colored scarlet macaws and toucans, saw puma
tracks in the sand, watched howler monkeys hooting away in
the trees, and swam in a deep river pool (afterward learning
that baby crocs are sometimes spotted there!) This was the
Costa Rica Joan has dreamed about seeing for years.
January 13-14, Nicaragua to Costa Rica: Actually sailed(!) in great winds from Puesto del Sol to
Bahia Santa Elena, a small, pristine bay at the northern end of Costa Rica. Our first experience with the
Papagayo winds. We double-reefed our main and flew only our staysail (the small headsail), and still
cooked along through the choppy seas at 6+ knots. Casteele is such a fine sailing vessel.
Bahia Santa Elena, a small, pristine bay at the northern end of Costa Rica. Our first experience with the
Papagayo winds. We double-reefed our main and flew only our staysail (the small headsail), and still
cooked along through the choppy seas at 6+ knots. Casteele is such a fine sailing vessel.
January 12, Nicaragua: Due to the total lack of wind and our nonstop
motoring, we had to make a fuel stop in a marina called Puesto del Sol
on the coast of Nicaragua. And what a lovely stop it was--a small, utterly
charming marina on a beautiful estuary, in a setting that had everything
we pictured when we thought of Central America---vivid green forests,
flowering plants, palm trees, exotic birds, and in the distance, perfectly
cone-shaped volcanoes. We were on a schedule to meet Jan's sister in
Costa Rica, so regrettably, we didn't have time to go inland and explore
these Central American countries we've heard so much about from other
cruisers. Another day, we hope.
motoring, we had to make a fuel stop in a marina called Puesto del Sol
on the coast of Nicaragua. And what a lovely stop it was--a small, utterly
charming marina on a beautiful estuary, in a setting that had everything
we pictured when we thought of Central America---vivid green forests,
flowering plants, palm trees, exotic birds, and in the distance, perfectly
cone-shaped volcanoes. We were on a schedule to meet Jan's sister in
Costa Rica, so regrettably, we didn't have time to go inland and explore
these Central American countries we've heard so much about from other
cruisers. Another day, we hope.
Las Dos Juanitas in Paradise
February 14 - 29: Two weeks in Golfito getting
ready for the passage to Galapagos: Golfito is a
tiny village on an estuary in Bahia Dulce, at the
southern end of Costa Rica. It used to be a major
banana-export center for United Fruit, but they
moved their operations out in the 80s, and Golfito is
pretty rough around the edges now, with that sad,
depressed feeling of a town on hard times. But the
surroundings are beautiful (Joan spends much of
her time drooling over the incredible ferns and
flowering plants), and the people very friendly.
There is a charming little "cruisers club" here called
Tierra Mar (Land Sea) where ex-pats Tim and Katie
offer at bargain prices all the things cruisers crave
the most: great showers, laundry facilities, internet
access, and cheap beer! We have spent the last
two weeks here doing boat projects, including trying
to fix leaks from our mast and from the sides of the
boat (arggh!). On March 1, we will set sail for the
Galapagos Islands, an ocean passage of about 700
miles. We might make a stop at Coco Island,
midway. We should be in the Galapagos by March
10 at the latest. Wish us a good passage!
ready for the passage to Galapagos: Golfito is a
tiny village on an estuary in Bahia Dulce, at the
southern end of Costa Rica. It used to be a major
banana-export center for United Fruit, but they
moved their operations out in the 80s, and Golfito is
pretty rough around the edges now, with that sad,
depressed feeling of a town on hard times. But the
surroundings are beautiful (Joan spends much of
her time drooling over the incredible ferns and
flowering plants), and the people very friendly.
There is a charming little "cruisers club" here called
Tierra Mar (Land Sea) where ex-pats Tim and Katie
offer at bargain prices all the things cruisers crave
the most: great showers, laundry facilities, internet
access, and cheap beer! We have spent the last
two weeks here doing boat projects, including trying
to fix leaks from our mast and from the sides of the
boat (arggh!). On March 1, we will set sail for the
Galapagos Islands, an ocean passage of about 700
miles. We might make a stop at Coco Island,
midway. We should be in the Galapagos by March
10 at the latest. Wish us a good passage!
