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Captain's Log 12: Tonga
August 21 - September 17, 2008
August 21 - September 17, 2008
What day is it??!
The passage from Niue to Tonga was actually pleasant, with some good winds and decent seas. Best of
all, it was short--only three days. En route, we crossed the International Date Line, which means we lost
a day. Or maybe we gained a day. We are still very confused about this.
The passage from Niue to Tonga was actually pleasant, with some good winds and decent seas. Best of
all, it was short--only three days. En route, we crossed the International Date Line, which means we lost
a day. Or maybe we gained a day. We are still very confused about this.
Niefu itself was delightful. Other than the "cruisers' strip" along
the waterfront, the town was simple and quiet. A lively open-air
market operated at one end, offering a welcome range of local
produce. There were pigs and piglets everywhere--rooting in
the front yards, wandering the streets, and even nosing
around the beaches at low tide.
The Tongan people are devoutly religious, and are known for
their incredibly beautiful singing. Even from our boat, we often
heard angelic voices, singing a-capella, wafting down from the
churches and meeting halls.
Tongan men and boys wear wrap-around skirts instead of
pants. Both men and women wear the "ta'ovala," a mat of
woven grass wrapped tightly around the waist and hips.
Ta'ovalas are worn as a sign of respect, and the most
intricately decorated ones are saved for special occasions and
passed down through families.
The Kingdom of Tonga is one of the last true monarchies in
the world and the only Pacific island group never to have been
colonized. This means they don't have any "sugar-daddy"
first-world country subsidizing their economy. But it also means
they have always been and remain independent. A
commendable feat.
A new monarch was crowned just days before our arrival, so
banners still hung over the streets and every business and
home flew the Tongan flag.
the waterfront, the town was simple and quiet. A lively open-air
market operated at one end, offering a welcome range of local
produce. There were pigs and piglets everywhere--rooting in
the front yards, wandering the streets, and even nosing
around the beaches at low tide.
The Tongan people are devoutly religious, and are known for
their incredibly beautiful singing. Even from our boat, we often
heard angelic voices, singing a-capella, wafting down from the
churches and meeting halls.
Tongan men and boys wear wrap-around skirts instead of
pants. Both men and women wear the "ta'ovala," a mat of
woven grass wrapped tightly around the waist and hips.
Ta'ovalas are worn as a sign of respect, and the most
intricately decorated ones are saved for special occasions and
passed down through families.
The Kingdom of Tonga is one of the last true monarchies in
the world and the only Pacific island group never to have been
colonized. This means they don't have any "sugar-daddy"
first-world country subsidizing their economy. But it also means
they have always been and remain independent. A
commendable feat.
A new monarch was crowned just days before our arrival, so
banners still hung over the streets and every business and
home flew the Tongan flag.
A cruisers' reunion
Leaving the open ocean, we entered the sheltered waterways of
the Va'Vau group in northern Tonga. This archipelago reminded
us of the Canadian Gulf Islands, with its small, closely spaced
islands and calm, protected channels and harbors. After checking
through customs, we hooked a mooring buoy in the bay of Niefu,
and found ourselves surrounded by "yachties."
From French Polynesia, ocean cruisers fan out in all directions,
some going north to Samoa, others south to the Cook Islands,
and others, like us, going straight west. But the fan closes at
Tonga, where everyone converges.
It was a grand reunion with cruiser friends, some of whom we
hadn't seen since Mexico. More than 100 boats were moored or
anchored in the bay, and every day and night, social activities
abounded. Musical jams were a popular event, and Jan got so
inspired, she purchased a used guitar. It was wonderful
connecting with old friends, but after awhile, such a nonstop social
life can get a little wearing.
Leaving the open ocean, we entered the sheltered waterways of
the Va'Vau group in northern Tonga. This archipelago reminded
us of the Canadian Gulf Islands, with its small, closely spaced
islands and calm, protected channels and harbors. After checking
through customs, we hooked a mooring buoy in the bay of Niefu,
and found ourselves surrounded by "yachties."
From French Polynesia, ocean cruisers fan out in all directions,
some going north to Samoa, others south to the Cook Islands,
and others, like us, going straight west. But the fan closes at
Tonga, where everyone converges.
It was a grand reunion with cruiser friends, some of whom we
hadn't seen since Mexico. More than 100 boats were moored or
anchored in the bay, and every day and night, social activities
abounded. Musical jams were a popular event, and Jan got so
inspired, she purchased a used guitar. It was wonderful
connecting with old friends, but after awhile, such a nonstop social
life can get a little wearing.
Niefu harbor, packed with cruisers from
around the world. The dinghy dock
(below) was a busy place.
around the world. The dinghy dock
(below) was a busy place.
Rain, rain, go away . . .
Another way in which Tonga reminded us of the PNW is that during our
stay there it rained. A lot. Not just the occasional tropical shower, but day
after day of leaden skies and downpour.
One night we had the most spectacular lightning storm imaginable --
hours of sheet lightning and forked bolts flashing in the sky, illuminating
everything as though it were daytime. A few strikes came uncomfortably
close, accompanied by a ripping crash of thunder that made us jump out
of our skins.
The good thing about all the rain is that we filled our water tanks. We
channeled water flowing off our bimini into buckets and then siphoned
that water into our tanks, filling them all. Now that's a lot of rain! As you
can see from the photo, despite the constant rain, it was still warm.
Another way in which Tonga reminded us of the PNW is that during our
stay there it rained. A lot. Not just the occasional tropical shower, but day
after day of leaden skies and downpour.
One night we had the most spectacular lightning storm imaginable --
hours of sheet lightning and forked bolts flashing in the sky, illuminating
everything as though it were daytime. A few strikes came uncomfortably
close, accompanied by a ripping crash of thunder that made us jump out
of our skins.
The good thing about all the rain is that we filled our water tanks. We
channeled water flowing off our bimini into buckets and then siphoned
that water into our tanks, filling them all. Now that's a lot of rain! As you
can see from the photo, despite the constant rain, it was still warm.
Uninhabited islands, coral reefs, and tranquility
The Va'Vau group invites exploration, and whenever the
weather cleared, we left Niefu for the quieter
anchorages scattered throughout the archipelago.
Navigation was tricky, with all the coral reefs, but we had
a good friend (Alan, on "Cheyenne") who helped us
safely negotiate the many hazards.
In one sheltered spot, we circumnavigated several islets
in our kayaks, gazing at the coral inches below us and
watching a colony of bats flying around the treetops. In
another anchorage, we experienced some of the best
snorkeling of our entire trip. The reef was aptly named
the "Coral Gardens," and we spent a memorable
afternoon exploring its incredibly varied and colorful
display.
Elsewhere, we hiked trails across uninhabited islands, at
one time exploring the dilapidated remains of a deserted
resort, at another time walking a beach that won second
place in Joan's list of "perfect beaches." We followed
Alan through the twists and turns of a passageway
through coral reefs to an anchorage off a rock
outcropping with a spectacular blow hole. As the ocean
waves crashed against the rock, a huge spout shot high
into the air.
In one anchorage, we met up with cruiser friends and
had a jam session on the bow of Casteele. Her big
decks offer great space. Jan played the kazoo, and
Ruben and Olive from "Yamana" took turns on the
harmonica.
In the Va'Vau group, one can find one lovely anchorage
after another, off small, undeveloped (or only partially
developed) islands and untouched beaches. It is
justifiably a hugely popular place for cruisers. (The
"Moorings" charter company has an active presence
there.) Because of frequently inclement weather, we
didn't see as much of the area as we would have liked,
but enjoyed it all nonetheless.
Our photos of Tonga don't do it justice. At the best
photo opts, we had either forgotten our camera or found
that its battery was depleted. But our memories live
large.
The Va'Vau group invites exploration, and whenever the
weather cleared, we left Niefu for the quieter
anchorages scattered throughout the archipelago.
Navigation was tricky, with all the coral reefs, but we had
a good friend (Alan, on "Cheyenne") who helped us
safely negotiate the many hazards.
In one sheltered spot, we circumnavigated several islets
in our kayaks, gazing at the coral inches below us and
watching a colony of bats flying around the treetops. In
another anchorage, we experienced some of the best
snorkeling of our entire trip. The reef was aptly named
the "Coral Gardens," and we spent a memorable
afternoon exploring its incredibly varied and colorful
display.
Elsewhere, we hiked trails across uninhabited islands, at
one time exploring the dilapidated remains of a deserted
resort, at another time walking a beach that won second
place in Joan's list of "perfect beaches." We followed
Alan through the twists and turns of a passageway
through coral reefs to an anchorage off a rock
outcropping with a spectacular blow hole. As the ocean
waves crashed against the rock, a huge spout shot high
into the air.
In one anchorage, we met up with cruiser friends and
had a jam session on the bow of Casteele. Her big
decks offer great space. Jan played the kazoo, and
Ruben and Olive from "Yamana" took turns on the
harmonica.
In the Va'Vau group, one can find one lovely anchorage
after another, off small, undeveloped (or only partially
developed) islands and untouched beaches. It is
justifiably a hugely popular place for cruisers. (The
"Moorings" charter company has an active presence
there.) Because of frequently inclement weather, we
didn't see as much of the area as we would have liked,
but enjoyed it all nonetheless.
Our photos of Tonga don't do it justice. At the best
photo opts, we had either forgotten our camera or found
that its battery was depleted. But our memories live
large.
Above, accomplished musicians and sailors, Jason
and Greg (Jason a single-hander; Greg and his
wife proud owners of the lovely "Willow"). Jan on the
kazoo, and Olive and Ruben on the harmonica.
Left, Peter and Alice, our dear friends from
"Yamana" and parents of Olive and Ruben.
and Greg (Jason a single-hander; Greg and his
wife proud owners of the lovely "Willow"). Jan on the
kazoo, and Olive and Ruben on the harmonica.
Left, Peter and Alice, our dear friends from
"Yamana" and parents of Olive and Ruben.