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Captain's Log 10: French Polynesia--
The Society Islands
July 2008
The Society Islands
July 2008
July 5 - July 16: Tahiti and Moorea
This sail trip has been a lesson in geography.
"Tahiti" is not a country, it is an island. (Maybe all of
you knew that already, but sad to say . . . ) "French
Polynesia" (the name of the country/region)
encompasses a huge area of ocean and several
clusters of islands. We spent a month in the
Marquesas (young volcanic islands in the
northeast) and another month in the Tuamotus
(coral atolls south of the Marquesas).
Finally we sailed west to the most famous
destinations: Papeete (the city on the island of
Tahiti), Moorea (dramatic peaks used in "South
Pacific" for the mythical island of Bali Hai), and Bora
Bora. Like the Marquesas (and Hawaii), these are
volcanic islands. But each one is encircled by a
coral reef, creating a lagoon of calm, protected,
turquoise waters, bordered by white coral-sand
beaches. Lush green foliage drapes these
islands--the hillsides remind us of Costa Rica, but
without the howler monkeys. Treetops have been
sheared into rounded umbrella shapes by the
constant winds. Along the shores of the lagoons
are the resort complexes featured in a multitude of
travel brochures and posters: thatch-roofed
bungalows perched on stilts over the quiet,
turquoise lagoons. Yep, Paradise, with a capital "P."
Honeymooners are everywhere, and rightfully so. It
is dramatically beautiful and extremely romantic
here.
Our first stop was an anchorage on the north end
of Moorea. Our friend and two-time
circumnavigator, Nancy Erly, said this was her
favorite anchorage in the South Pacific. It was
lovely indeed, especially with the shark-tooth spires
of Moorea providing a backdrop to the lagoon
anchorage. We reconnected with many cruiser
friends, including Sally and Brad on Pax Vobiscum,
and then had a great sail back to Papeete, the
biggest city on the most populated island, Tahiti.
July is "Fete" month in French Polynesia--a time of
festivities, competitions, and general holiday.
Javelin-throwing competitions, dance competitions,
even stone-carrying competitions. We attended
several events, including a terrific dance
competition in which groups from three different
communities staged a dance and song
performance.
Papeete is a charming blend of French and
Polynesian cultures. What a pleasure it was to shop
in large grocery stores and markets, after weeks of
tiny shops with onions and potatoes being the only
produce. However, the prices made the pleasure
short-lived. Unbelievable. Most items, including
food, cost 3 or 4 times as much as in the States.
We did a lot of damage to our cruising kitty.
This sail trip has been a lesson in geography.
"Tahiti" is not a country, it is an island. (Maybe all of
you knew that already, but sad to say . . . ) "French
Polynesia" (the name of the country/region)
encompasses a huge area of ocean and several
clusters of islands. We spent a month in the
Marquesas (young volcanic islands in the
northeast) and another month in the Tuamotus
(coral atolls south of the Marquesas).
Finally we sailed west to the most famous
destinations: Papeete (the city on the island of
Tahiti), Moorea (dramatic peaks used in "South
Pacific" for the mythical island of Bali Hai), and Bora
Bora. Like the Marquesas (and Hawaii), these are
volcanic islands. But each one is encircled by a
coral reef, creating a lagoon of calm, protected,
turquoise waters, bordered by white coral-sand
beaches. Lush green foliage drapes these
islands--the hillsides remind us of Costa Rica, but
without the howler monkeys. Treetops have been
sheared into rounded umbrella shapes by the
constant winds. Along the shores of the lagoons
are the resort complexes featured in a multitude of
travel brochures and posters: thatch-roofed
bungalows perched on stilts over the quiet,
turquoise lagoons. Yep, Paradise, with a capital "P."
Honeymooners are everywhere, and rightfully so. It
is dramatically beautiful and extremely romantic
here.
Our first stop was an anchorage on the north end
of Moorea. Our friend and two-time
circumnavigator, Nancy Erly, said this was her
favorite anchorage in the South Pacific. It was
lovely indeed, especially with the shark-tooth spires
of Moorea providing a backdrop to the lagoon
anchorage. We reconnected with many cruiser
friends, including Sally and Brad on Pax Vobiscum,
and then had a great sail back to Papeete, the
biggest city on the most populated island, Tahiti.
July is "Fete" month in French Polynesia--a time of
festivities, competitions, and general holiday.
Javelin-throwing competitions, dance competitions,
even stone-carrying competitions. We attended
several events, including a terrific dance
competition in which groups from three different
communities staged a dance and song
performance.
Papeete is a charming blend of French and
Polynesian cultures. What a pleasure it was to shop
in large grocery stores and markets, after weeks of
tiny shops with onions and potatoes being the only
produce. However, the prices made the pleasure
short-lived. Unbelievable. Most items, including
food, cost 3 or 4 times as much as in the States.
We did a lot of damage to our cruising kitty.
The city of Papeete--a culture shock after
two months of remote islands and atolls
two months of remote islands and atolls
Javelin-throwing--part
of the "Fete"
competitons. The
target is a coconut
perched on top a 50-ft
pole (left). At the end
of a round, a good 15
or more javelins would
be dangling from the
coconut.
of the "Fete"
competitons. The
target is a coconut
perched on top a 50-ft
pole (left). At the end
of a round, a good 15
or more javelins would
be dangling from the
coconut.
Emmanuelle, a French woman who
has lived most of her life in French
Polynesia. She has wonderful
visions for eco-friendly,
sustainable development, and she
was an indispensable help to us in
Fakarava as we worked with the
community on the home-schooling
project. Many, many thanks to you,
Emmanuelle!
has lived most of her life in French
Polynesia. She has wonderful
visions for eco-friendly,
sustainable development, and she
was an indispensable help to us in
Fakarava as we worked with the
community on the home-schooling
project. Many, many thanks to you,
Emmanuelle!
Moorea, its famous peaks shrouded in
clouds. Moorea's dramatic spires were
used in the movie "South Pacific" for the
mythical island of Bali Hai.
clouds. Moorea's dramatic spires were
used in the movie "South Pacific" for the
mythical island of Bali Hai.
The beautiful lagoon of Huahine--calm,
protected waters inside the fringe reef.
Below, Sally from Pax Vobiscum walks
the coral sands.
protected waters inside the fringe reef.
Below, Sally from Pax Vobiscum walks
the coral sands.
July 16 to 24: The coral lagoons of Huahine and Tahaa, then famous Bora Bora,
where Jan earns the name "The Dingy Dinghy Lady"
Our pockets sadly empty of any more francs, we escaped Papeete for the less-visited
islands of Huahine and Tahaa. In each, we entered the coral lagoon through a pass in the
reef and dropped anchor over white sand, in water clear as glass. Our spot on the south
end of Huahine was especially lovely, but unfortunately we had several days of clouds, rain,
and wind. We tried whining to friends back home, but nobody gave us any sympathy.
On the island of Tahaa (next to Raitea), we joined a group of cruising pals, mostly from
Canada, and attended a local dance performance. Then it was off to the famous island of
Bora Bora, where we attended yet another dance performance and spent an evening at the
restaurant "Bloody Mary's." (The song will not leave our heads . . . )
Jan had an exciting time with our dinghy (affectionately known as "Dude"). She approached
Casteele from the wrong direction (going with the wind instead of against it). She grabbed
hold of the fender step thinking the outboard was in neutral, then grabbed the outboard
controls and mistakenly gave it gas. Dude jerked forward, tossing Jan into the water, one
hand still clutching the fender step. Dude puttered nonchalantly off into the sunset with no
one on board. Joan yelled for help on the VHF while Jan struggled to get onto Casteele
without losing her glasses (she had already lost her reputation as a dinghy boat handler).
There was quite an audience of cruisers and now Jan is known as the "Dinghy Lady that is a
bit dingy." (Luckily, our pal Paul on Cutty Wren chased after Dude in his dinghy and caught
our wayward craft before it beached itself on the reef.)
Tomorrow we leave for Tonga, about 870 miles away. We hope to stop at one or more of the
Cook Islands along the way, as well as the tiny island nation of Niue. The winds will dictate
our route.
where Jan earns the name "The Dingy Dinghy Lady"
Our pockets sadly empty of any more francs, we escaped Papeete for the less-visited
islands of Huahine and Tahaa. In each, we entered the coral lagoon through a pass in the
reef and dropped anchor over white sand, in water clear as glass. Our spot on the south
end of Huahine was especially lovely, but unfortunately we had several days of clouds, rain,
and wind. We tried whining to friends back home, but nobody gave us any sympathy.
On the island of Tahaa (next to Raitea), we joined a group of cruising pals, mostly from
Canada, and attended a local dance performance. Then it was off to the famous island of
Bora Bora, where we attended yet another dance performance and spent an evening at the
restaurant "Bloody Mary's." (The song will not leave our heads . . . )
Jan had an exciting time with our dinghy (affectionately known as "Dude"). She approached
Casteele from the wrong direction (going with the wind instead of against it). She grabbed
hold of the fender step thinking the outboard was in neutral, then grabbed the outboard
controls and mistakenly gave it gas. Dude jerked forward, tossing Jan into the water, one
hand still clutching the fender step. Dude puttered nonchalantly off into the sunset with no
one on board. Joan yelled for help on the VHF while Jan struggled to get onto Casteele
without losing her glasses (she had already lost her reputation as a dinghy boat handler).
There was quite an audience of cruisers and now Jan is known as the "Dinghy Lady that is a
bit dingy." (Luckily, our pal Paul on Cutty Wren chased after Dude in his dinghy and caught
our wayward craft before it beached itself on the reef.)
Tomorrow we leave for Tonga, about 870 miles away. We hope to stop at one or more of the
Cook Islands along the way, as well as the tiny island nation of Niue. The winds will dictate
our route.
The gardens of Huahine are a riot of fantastic
colors. The people bury deceased family
members right in their yards--in the center of
the photo is a gravestone. On the left, a
drying shed for copra (sliced coconut), an
important export. Sally is modeling a pareau
painted by the fellow next to her. Below is a
"marea," an ancient stone/coral structure built
by the original Polynesians for ceremonial
purposes.
colors. The people bury deceased family
members right in their yards--in the center of
the photo is a gravestone. On the left, a
drying shed for copra (sliced coconut), an
important export. Sally is modeling a pareau
painted by the fellow next to her. Below is a
"marea," an ancient stone/coral structure built
by the original Polynesians for ceremonial
purposes.
Above, heading toward the pass of Tahaa,
where we turned right and sailed to Bora
Bora, visible on the horizon. On the left,
our Canadian sailing pals Orca III.
where we turned right and sailed to Bora
Bora, visible on the horizon. On the left,
our Canadian sailing pals Orca III.
Bora Bora